I'm going to help an 'acquaintance' set up one of these gyros possibly over the weekend. He has a Fut transmitter, unk model at this time.Heli is a R-50.
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I'm not 100% sure on the tail servo right now but it might be a JR890G. Can someone offer a 'quick, cut to the chase' method of setting up one of these? I did download the user guide but a couple of things are unclear.
I'll have to re-read it a few more times. Surething Ticket Maker Crack. I'm familiar with the FUT 401's but this JR is a bit different. Thanx for any suggestions.
Let me start by saying I have 5 of these gyro's. On a 450, 500, 600, V50 and 700. The 770 setup is very close to a 401 but it uses different perameters for its settings. It is critical with this gyro to set it up in rate mode by hovering it and adjusting tail pitch mechanically until it does not drift. Ensure the servo horn is 90 deg to the rod in rate mode. Center trim and 0 subtrim.
Use as much of the limit pot value as you can. 80% or so will be about right. Max it toward the tail case and dont worry about the direction toward the hub just ensure it doesnt bind either way.
It likes a high limit adjustment and a low mechanical gain. You will be in farther on the horn then a 401 to have good tail authority. Set your expo to about 50%. This is actually only 10% expo for this gyro. Naresh Malhotra Marketing Research Ebook Pdf more. 40% being linear.
D/R should be set to about 60% to start. This will be your piro rate. Set your ATV or EPA at 150% on rudder.
Put in HH and test. This gyro can and will do wacky things if the set up is off. If piro starts out fast then slows the gain is low. If you cant increase the gain without a bounce or wag then you have to much mechanical gain and need to move the ball in on the servo so you can increase the electronic gain value.
Your piro rate should be equal both directions if it hovers in rate without trim. You can adjust each directions piro rate seperatly by decreasing the ATV on the rudder. Use the D/R to bring the overall piro rate down equally. If you follow these steps it should fly like a dream no matter how hard you push the tail. Dave Williams Team Align Quote.
I cant remember if finless mentioned it in his videos but theres something about setting up the center point in rate mode. I guess its the difference between JR and Futaba gyros. I flew my heli with the 770 and an 8900g servo and it went just fine with HH mode. I put the gain to 25 so it was in rate mode and then adjusted the TR pushrod to get the TR to stop drifting. Then I put the gyro back in HH mode.
I still dont know exactly why this is important, I think I heard the word deadband somewhere but I dont know what that is. AMA 497715 IRCHA 3351 Quote. Some gyros like the Spartan and solid/mini G it's not important but Futaba gyros and the 770 it's crucial for solid performance if you fly hard. With these gyros, they have to already work just to hold the tail still and then compensate past that point to correct drift under load. By trimming in rate it only has to work for the changes.
When not done this way your tail will yaw right under hard load cause it can't compensate. Chris, Dont forget to readjust your limit after the tail rod adjustment. Dave Williams Team Align Quote. Dave is correct. Some gyros are more tolerant of NOT mechanically trimming. Some Helicopters have some right pitch built in to give an APPROXIMATE amount of right pitch to counteract the torque of the main rotor.
ALL gyros will benefit from trimming in rate mode (if they have a rate mode) The 770 even though I recall the manual not mentioning it, it is critical that it be set to not drift in rate mode at the headspeed you plan on doing the majority of your flying. If you do this, it won't 'bounce back' and the piroette rate will be very consistent, and equal in both directions.